But before you swear off meat entirely, let me describe a very different
sort of animal farm. It is typical of nothing, and yet its very existence
puts the whole moral question of animal agriculture in a different light.
Polyface Farm occupies 550 acres of rolling grassland and forest in the
Shenandoah Valley of Virginia. Here, Joel Salatin and his family raise six
different food animals -- cattle, pigs, chickens, rabbits, turkeys and
sheep -- in an intricate dance of symbiosis designed to allow each species,
in Salatin's words, ''to fully express its physiological distinctiveness.''
What this means in practice is that Salatin's chickens live like chickens;
his cows, like cows; pigs, pigs. As in nature, where birds tend to follow
herbivores, once Salatin's cows have finished grazing a pasture, he moves
them out and tows in his ''eggmobile,'' a portable chicken coop that houses
several hundred laying hens -- roughly the natural size of a flock. The hens
fan out over the pasture, eating the short grass and picking insect larvae
out of the cowpats -- all the while spreading the cow manure and eliminating
the farm's parasite problem. A diet of grubs and grass makes for
exceptionally tasty eggs and contented chickens, and their nitrogenous
manure feeds the pasture. A few weeks later, the chickens move out, and the
sheep come in, dining on the lush new growth, as well as on the weed species
(nettles, nightshade) that the cattle and chickens won't touch.
Meanwhile, the pigs are in the barn turning the compost. All winter long,
while the cattle were indoors, Salatin layered their manure with straw, wood
chips -- and corn. By March, this steaming compost layer cake stands three
feet high, and the pigs, whose powerful snouts can sniff out and retrieve
the fermented corn at the bottom, get to spend a few happy weeks rooting
through the pile, aerating it as they work. All you can see of these pigs,
intently nosing out the tasty alcoholic morsels, are their upturned pink
hams and corkscrew tails churning the air. The finished compost will go to
feed the grass; the grass, the cattle; the cattle, the chickens; and
eventually all of these animals will feed us.
I thought a lot about vegetarianism and animal rights during the day I spent
on Joel Salatin's extraordinary farm. So much of what I'd read, so much of
what I'd accepted, looked very different from here. To many animal
rightists, even Polyface Farm is a death camp. But to look at these animals
is to see this for the sentimental conceit it is. In the same way that we
can probably recognize animal suffering when we see it, animal happiness is
unmistakable, too, and here I was seeing it in abundance.